Day 18 - Sydney, NS and Fort Louisburg

Today marked the furthest north we would travel on land on this trip. We actually had to sail southward into Sydney harbor as the harbor is on the north shore of Cape Breton Island. The sailing was rough during the night, but the day dawned clear and cool. We really didn't see much of the community of Sydney. We docked in a residential neighborhood, though it was only a couple of blocks from the commercial hub of the city. For shopping they had plenty of shops in the wharf shopping center, along with internet - yes, the first internet I had seen all week. I only had about an hour and a half to work but I at least cleaned out my inbox.
We had booked a tour to the fortress of Louisburg - the crown jewel of the French military fortressess on the North American Continent - now the crown jewel of the Canadian Historical Preservation group. The fort and community have be totally rebuilt from drawings and plans sent back to France when the community and fort were initially built in the 1740s. From across the bay this is what it looks like today.

As I stated previously the whole community surrounding the fort has been restored to the 1744 era. Since the official tourist season was over only some of the buildings were open for us to visit. In the summer they have upwards of 400 people in period costume here manning interactive displays. The fort, in its heyday, housed up to 7,000 soldiers and is gigantic.

Over the retaining wall, where merchant boats would dock to unload goods, you can see the present day community of Louisburg. Off to the left about a mile or mile and a half down the shore line was a battery of cannons along with another battery to the right (0ut of sight) that provided the typical 3 direction fire power to protect the fort. Unfortunately the French lost this fort twice to the British-- both times because they were convinced that they would be attacked from this direction by boat. Unfortunately, the British both times landed on the back side of the peninsula and marched through the forest to the battery at the left (which the French abandoned leaving cannon, cannon balls, and powder) so the British could bombard Louisburg with its own defensive weapons. The first time that the British overtook the fort the French were allowed to leave with all weapons, etc. and given safe passage off Cape Breton. After the French reestablished themselves here a few years later and the British had to again recapture the fort, they imprisoned all the captives, took them away, and destroyed the fort. In the 1960s Canada realized the tourist value of the fort and began the restoration process which continues to this day.

French soldiers were often kidnapped and pressed into service. Most of them were illiterate so they would need non-verbal ways to know where certain things were located - like the local pub. This sign was designed for them to know this is where they could get some liquid refreshment and the sun was to remind them they needed to be back to the barracks before dawn.

The streets of the community were fairly wide. Only officials, military leaders, etc. were allowed to walk in the center of the street. Commoners and regular soldiers were required to walk along the sides of the streets. Why? No plumbing-- so human and laundry wastes were collected in pots and just thrown out the windows onto the streets. The wealthy didn't want to get all dirty and smelly when traveling through the town so they walked down the middle!

This is the restoration of the Frederick Gate where all merchants would enter the community. The local governor caught flack for build this extravagant structure.

There was no running water and all water had to be gathered from wells like this one. Disease was endemic and sanitation was the biggest cause of their health problems.

Canada has gone so far as to reintroduce animals, like these sheep, which are the same breeds as would have been found here in 1744. Remember this place had to be as self-sufficient as possible. So vegetable gardens abounded, and domestic animals were found here in abundance.